I always feel late to the party. Never having an urge to follow trends or trendsetters, I confess to harboring a secret desire to be cool, and/or the first to write about a place few have experienced. Oh I realize there’s really no place left where I could be first and I understand the ‘Momconsolation’ about any place having the capacity to be lent a factor of cool just by having viewed it from your own unique perspective, “dear”.
But still.
I just discovered Northern New Mexico. Really?
Following that with another shocking fact– it’s not Wyoming. But I love it like that.
To contrast the two in a broad sweep, my favorite region of Wyoming, the Teton/Yellowstone region, is male. The Rio Chama valley, female.
The Teton/Yellowstone area is an in-your-face jack, masculine, egocentric, chest-thumping, robustly virile environment. The topography is massive, imposing, bigger than life. The mountains are mighty, the mammals large, the water flows fiercely. You do things here that are dangerous, macho, vigorously physical, and more often than not, controversial. Vistas overtly fight for attention; not one component is subtle in its call to attention. An arrogance of survival and natural selection permeates the thin air. The largest volcanic caldera on the planet lies chugging underfoot. The area lends itself well to rap lyrics. Not only is it male, it’s 14 year old male.
As I look around from a perch on a ridge in the Rio Chama valley, I see that the high-desert environment is also vigorous. The elements here, if not respected will kill you, but quietly so and without fanfare. Strength without intelligence to match is punished by this environment. It’s also make-a-grown-man-cry beautiful. But the beauty here is erudite. Abstract. Humble. The primary colors of the earth are riotous but gently turn your head with their rebellious outbursts; nothing here yanks obnoxiously at your lapels. Life is older; wiser. Long deep breaths are induced during sweeping, lazy gazes at the horizon. Where the Tetons are brute force and prideful in the face of their aging, Northern New Mexico is heartbreakingly fragile and makes no apologies for it. It’s Pavarotti. Not only is it female, it’s an old, eloquent, eccentric woman that everyone wants to be when they grow up.
On the October road trip, I drove west trip from Taos with the intent of not stopping until I had driven the truck into Arizona and made a U-turn. Abiquiu (Ab-i-que) stole those plans. Then made me like the change-up. I arrived here and didn’t leave for 4 days.
Other New Mexico related posts in this series:
Abiquiu – The Penitente Morada
Abiquiu – The Dar al Islam Mosque
The Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail
New Mexico Travel Sites:
Hatch Chile Festival – September 3,4, 2011
Join the Road Trip Revolution at the Solo Road Trip Facebook Fan Page, here.
You do write beautifully. And such a beautiful area. A friend went out there after high school and sent back a picture of a sunset that brought tears to my eyes. I’ve traveled extensively throughout my life, but rarely within the US. As I get older, I’m beginning to recognize that the time has come to make an effort to see more of this magnificent country while I’m still young enough to get around. I’ve just added Northern New Mexico to my list.
Comment by Jack — July 27, 2011 @ 2:55 pm
I was in Taos for a workshop in May and then a friend and I went to Abiquiu for two nights. We drove up to the Penitente Morada and to Plaza Blanca and tried to go to Dar Al Islam, but it was closed to visitors–a retreat was in progress. However, we had the amazing good fortune to stay in a house built by a man who did most/all of the woodwork inside Dar Al Islam. He is from the Netherlands. He and his wife came to Abiquiu when the mosque was being built and, because he had so many requests for work, they just stayed. Your prose articulates so well everything I felt about that place and that landscape. Thank you.
Comment by Penny — June 4, 2011 @ 11:37 pm
Is that heaven?
Comment by Steven — March 3, 2011 @ 11:02 am
First time visitor to your site and I couldn’t wrest my eyes from your violent, lucid prose. Well done. Keep it up. I need to visit New Mexico now.
Comment by SVV — March 1, 2011 @ 9:41 pm
James, Yes! I forget you guys are much more familiar with the beauty and appeal of Northern New Mexico than I! I’m just glad it finally hit my SRT radar. Now I’m just working on a way to get back.
Comment by Tammie Dooley — March 1, 2011 @ 8:44 pm
Tam, we LOVE northern New Mexico near Las Vegas. Such a change from the land we live in Louisiana. Love your pics. Makes us want to revisit soon!
Comment by james — February 25, 2011 @ 8:58 am
Steve, I didn’t make it to AZ this last trip. I have plans to make it there the next one, assuming I can get past Abiquiu. May have to close my eyes as I pass through town. Okay, squint them.
Camels & Chocolate, it is expensive to fly there! I flew to Santa Fe the first go, then drove the next. I equate flying into Santa Fe with flying into Jackson Hole. Tiny airports in resort towns = $$$$.
VM, interesting observation you’ve got there. I believe you may be onto something with that supposition. Although I do love Montana. I just never seem to make it that far on my SRTs. And there’s nothing wrong with Colorado. Just doesn’t seem to have the “frontier” appeal the other 3 possess.
Thank you everyone for your comments! There will be several posts on Abiquiu, so check back.
Comment by Tammie Dooley — February 21, 2011 @ 3:45 pm
I’ve always had this theory. You either like New Mexico and Wyoming, or Colorado and Montana. I’ll take NM and Wyo.
Comment by VM — February 20, 2011 @ 8:09 pm
Wow! I see the contrast and the delight in your discovery of this dramatic landscape. Catching the feeling of place with your words and pictures takes me to places I’ve sometimes seen but never been. Keep trip pin’ !
Comment by Pops — February 20, 2011 @ 12:36 pm
You nailed it. We love Abiquiu and the beautiful country that seduced Georgia O’Keeffe and changed her life forever. We’re lucky that it’s just a bit over an hour drive. Your photos do justice to the hauntingly beautiful country. BTW, did you get to AZ?
Comment by Steve Collins — February 17, 2011 @ 10:45 am
Amazing photos! Thanks for this great post, I look forward to seeing more.
Comment by Leader — February 16, 2011 @ 7:41 pm
Looks incredible! I’m eager to explore Georgia O’Keeffe’s stomping grounds.
Comment by Andi of My Beautiful Adventures — February 16, 2011 @ 1:28 pm
Your prose is as delightful as the pictures are beautiful. And to ramble about Georgia O’keeffe’s canvas must have made a wonderful adventure. Thanks for sharing!
Comment by claymama — February 16, 2011 @ 6:55 am
I’m *dying* to go to Santa Fe and Taos–and haven’t been for lack of trying. It’s so expensive to fly to NW–even from California! One day…
Comment by Camels & Chocolate — February 16, 2011 @ 1:55 am