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The Great Plains: A Tall Tale of Waving Wheat

August 10, 2011 - America's Great Plains

It’s 111. Degrees. That’s absolute temperature, not the oddly popular blood-and-thunder heat index.  Full on verbal attempts to describe it have fizzled to whimpers and grunts. Beyond hot was getting thrown around a lot. Hotter than hell went out when it hit 100. And that was 32 days in a row ago. What I know is the nape of my neck is dripping dank, and there’s only one wearing per bra. The front door is fatter than the frame so we come and go through the garage oven.  The house is a cave 24/7 – shutters tight, lights off. Seventy five year old trees are dropping their leaves; smaller plants bend and twist towards hope. Our world, normally jungle lush with heat and humidity is garish and warped. It’s one giant stroke victim – water, not blood in short supply.

Beyond Hot

Hotter than…Death Valley

And when I lay down at night with no cover and toss and turn for hours thinking I can’t go to sleep without at least a sheet, dreams come of the only place I long to be.

Sitting cross-legged in dirt that moves and shifts with the insects on their highway, the winter grass mounds up then splits the surface like a time-lapse documentary. A new shoot carries me upward just in time to see groups metamorphosis into pale green polka dots floating over the field. One sticks underfoot and we surf the tops of the prairie grass watching critters burrow and build; animals shapeshift from prairie dogs to pheasants, coyotes to bison. A wall of wind sweeps by and we glide to a stop to watch the returning shock wave. It blasts and tramples a bull elephant approach; my ride shuddering and ducking for cover dissolves into the aureate October light. I’m left standing at the edge of the tall grass prairie.

Looking about for sound I’m aware for the first time I see and feel, but hear nothing. Joyous with the slow mo silent movie, one step puts a boot in touch with delicate strands of gold bullion at my feet. Turning toward the setting sun, my eyes snap shut against the sandy sparks of tumbleweed. It surprises with a cold hard sting, the tumbleweed having transformed mid-air to snow.  Rays of filtered sun stream through dark clouds. The snow is heavy but the mightier wind seizes it from the clouds at such a slant, it never touches the gilded grass. In this silent halcyon, held captive between a blackened sky streaked with snow and gold at my feet, the next step forward finds a tan, dead pasture.

Shifting awake, clamoring for a cool spot on my pillow, I beg my brain to go back. But morning comes and for hours the joy lingers in the way of rare flying dreams. As the memory fades, the fight is lost to restore the high of cruising the grasses on that pale green polka dot. It dissipates almost completely by day end.  My comfort comes from knowing the October road trip is now within range of the Outlook window.

As always, I’ll pull from the driveway toying with the thought of heading a different direction. But as always, the truck will turn north, a starving beast, until the grasses come into view. And it won’t turn around until the Great Plains run out.

Join the Road Trip Revolution at the Solo Road Trip Facebook Fan Page, here.

Best Road Trip Blog?

July 25, 2011 - Behind The Wheel

i’m terrible at marketing. most comfortable being behind the scenes, i desire to write, not self promote. i understand trade-offs are made. for the most part i’m fully aware what those are. self promotion takes a lot of effort and for that dedication and commitment anyone good at it gets my respect. nevertheless i appreciate, even delight in the occasional pat on the back.

it’s hard to top being nominated by USA Today as one of the top ten iconic American images with the photograph Walkway to the West.

Badlands, South Dakota

Walkway to the West. Badlands, South Dakota.

“Finalist: Walkway to the West in the American High Plains by Tammie Dooley of Tulsa, Okla. The judges, who would have picked this as the second-place winner, were struck by its “great mood – stormy, majestic, dramatic – emphasized by the drama of black and white. It draws you in and pushes you away at the same time, challenging you intellectually.” They found it emblematic of the high plains and prairies so unique to the American landscape. “The whole middle of the country is represented here,” they said.””

but that was sometime ago (November 2009). the ego needs a boost occasionally. even if it’s a trumped up one.

does this mean i can claim to be the #1 road trip blog? seems an ever so tiny stretch. think i’ll just stop at hey, good news!

a believer in sharing the love and that the BEST changes with every perspective and day to day like the tilt of the sun’s illumination on a door knob, here’s the link that lists all the others.  road trip fiends rejoice – you have many choices.

Join the Road Trip Revolution at the Solo Road Trip Facebook Fan Page, here.

Abiquiu, New Mexico

I always feel late to the party. Never having an urge to follow trends or trendsetters, I confess to harboring a secret desire to be cool, and/or the first to write about a place few have experienced. Oh I realize there’s really no place left where I could be first and I understand the ‘Momconsolation’ about any place having the capacity to be lent a factor of cool just by having viewed it from your own unique perspective, “dear”.

But still.

I just discovered Northern New Mexico. Really?

Northern New Mexico

Northern New Mexico

Following that with another shocking fact– it’s not Wyoming. But I love it like that.

To contrast the two in a broad sweep, my favorite region of Wyoming, the Teton/Yellowstone region, is male. The Rio Chama valley, female.

The Teton/Yellowstone area is an in-your-face jack, masculine, egocentric, chest-thumping, robustly virile environment. The topography is massive, imposing, bigger than life. The mountains are mighty, the mammals large, the water flows fiercely. You do things here that are dangerous, macho, vigorously physical, and more often than not, controversial. Vistas overtly fight for attention; not one component is subtle in its call to attention. An arrogance of survival and natural selection permeates the thin air. The largest volcanic caldera on the planet lies chugging underfoot. The area lends itself well to rap lyrics.  Not only is it male, it’s 14 year old male.

Rio Chama River

Rio Chama River

As I look around from a perch on a ridge in the Rio Chama valley, I see that the high-desert environment is also vigorous. The elements here, if not respected will kill you, but quietly so and without fanfare. Strength without intelligence to match is punished by this environment. It’s also make-a-grown-man-cry beautiful. But the beauty here is erudite. Abstract. Humble. The primary colors of the earth are riotous but gently turn your head with their rebellious outbursts; nothing here yanks obnoxiously at your lapels.  Life is older; wiser. Long deep breaths are induced during sweeping, lazy gazes at the horizon. Where the Tetons are brute force and prideful in the face of their aging, Northern New Mexico is heartbreakingly fragile and makes no apologies for it.  It’s Pavarotti. Not only is it female, it’s an old, eloquent, eccentric woman that everyone wants to be when they grow up.

Taos New Mexico

West of Taos, somewhere

On the October road trip, I drove west trip from Taos with the intent of not stopping until I had driven the truck into Arizona and made a U-turn. Abiquiu (Ab-i-que) stole those plans. Then made me like the change-up.  I arrived here and didn’t leave for 4 days.

New Mexico

New Mexico

Abiquiu New Mexico

Northern New Mexico

Abiquiu New Mexico

Colorful New Mexico

Other New Mexico related posts in this series:

The Abiquiu Inn

Abiquiu – The Penitente Morada

Abiquiu – Plaza Blanca

Abiquiu – The Dar al Islam Mosque

Abiquiu

The Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail

New Mexico Travel Sites:

Hatch Chile Festival – September 3,4, 2011

New Mexico Tourism

Where to buy hatch chiles

Join the Road Trip Revolution at the Solo Road Trip Facebook Fan Page, here.

 

The Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail

Somewhere on the outskirts of Paris, Texas was a heavenly little burger joint.  Our stops there were the rare exception to home cooked meals and would have been pure giddiness had I ever been allowed to have two of those small gems.  For that cruel dictum I fought back by eating the huge roll on my lunch plate first. And my skinny friend’s for dessert.  I can’t recall the superheros of the time because Wimpy balancing that stack of burgers was the only hero I required.  Iron Man recently bumped Wimpy as a more modern version of burger clutching role model. Stopping for an American cheeseburger was first priority upon his return from three months in captivity – my kind of hero despite the Burger King bag.

Lander Bar & Grill Kitchen Sink Cheeseburger

Burger King wouldn’t know what this is. Lander Bar & Grill Kitchen Sink Cheeseburger, Lander, Wyoming

Since fast food is off limit during a solo road trip, I’ve become part bloodhound in detecting the smell of a well seasoned flat iron grill.  Oh I’ve ordered burgers in upscale restaurants (just in case you’re a first time reader I use ‘upscale restaurants’ loosely).  But haven’t eaten one yet that surpassed the cheap ones cooked on a blackened grill of high quality beef, American cheese, tomatoes, lettuce and pickles – in Oklahoma with onions fried in.  Always capped with a white flour bun toasted on said grill and slicked on top with a shimmer of oil – pulls the whole thing together. Not unlike the rug in The Big Lebowski.

Brownie's Tulsa Oklahoma

the basque beret bun is the perfect lid. Brownie’s, Tulsa, Oklahoma

Brownie's Tulsa Oklahoma

That’s the basic architectural structure but no condiment or food item plopped atop is doubtfully frowned upon. Mom’s “eat the damn thing before you judge” was taken to heart at an early age.   Which brings me to the Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail.

Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail Map

Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail Map

No single state can lay claim to a burger component like New Mexico to the hatch [chile]. Roasted, then sweated to shed the skin, halved or chopped and blanketed with cheese, the first bite yields a soft tomatillo wang that settles on the front of the tongue; mild to medium heat creeps toward the back. The taste bud conference in the middle is unmistakably green pepper, a stab of sunshine, and a swish of buttery chardonnay.  Wimpy would have pawned his waistline for this coupling.

66 restaurants (in honor of Rt. 66) made the trail for 2011.   Some, like Blake’s Lotaburgers have multiple locations. My favorite? The green chile cheeseburger from Bode’s General Store in Abiquiu. Clayton’s The Rabbit Ear Café was good.  I couldn’t get past Blake’s Lotaburger in Espanola being part of a chain. Bobcat Bite in Santa Fe (in a very un Santa Fe location) grinds their own chuck roast. While bigger than Bode’s, it lacked something. Could have been the karma from Bode’s table cloth – an intangible advantage that may not have a leveling component. I’m guessing those table covers aren’t available just anywhere.  Sorry Bobcat.  If you’re headed to New Mexico or near any of its borders, plan on taking the burger trail map and stopping for a New Mexico gem, or two.

**   No caveman cookery will take place tonight. I’ll give the arteries a break and grill the Boca Burger in my freezer. They now make ¼ pounders!  I can’t decide if this is more of a good thing or a harder slap in the face.  The cheese will remain in its cellophane package. A stack of tomatoes, pickles, and lettuce will be piled high between a whole wheat bun that I’ll give a good lick on top to mimic the oil slick.  And I’ll dream of being Wimpy’s best friend on a day he was flush with burger money.

Green Chile Cheeseburger

Bode’s General Store Green Chile Cheeseburger and the Rockin Table Cover – most burger joints can’t compete with that

Bode's General Store

Bode’s on the Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail and home of the SRT favorite Green Chile Cheeseburger.

** For more fun travel and taste bud ideas, check out Wanderfood Wednesdays at Wanderlust & Lipstick. The Pan Fried Chive Bun recipe is on my list. Check out the July 12th post.

Other posts in this series:

The Abiquiu Inn

Abiquiu – The Penitente Morada

Abiquiu – Plaza Blanca

Abiquiu – The Dar al Islam Mosque

Abiquiu

New Mexico Travel Sites:

Hatch Chile Festival – September 3,4, 2011

New Mexico Tourism

Where to buy hatch chiles

Join the Road Trip Revolution at the Solo Road Trip Facebook Fan Page, here.

The Abiquiu Inn

Seldom does my choice of lodging impact the road trip.  I come away with hardly a memory of where I slept.  The stipulations of clean, cheap and quiet aren’t exactly fodder for a story about architectural elements, or the rarity of the wood used, or how the original paintings made the room museum like.  I don’t plan to be in the room long enough to enjoy such decorative perks; subsequently I darn sure don’t want to pay for them.

There are the road trip nights spent at motels like the Cozy Motel that spawn and spin memorable yarns that emanate from something other than the IPE deck surrounding the private hot tub.  Like way colorful characters.  And a lapse of observation skills on my part.  But those sand man related moments are rare.

The Abiquiu Inn, Abiquiu, New Mexico was the only visible lodging in the area.  I broke a rule allowing dark to find me before I’d found a place to sleep.  Reason enough to check in the first night. But I continued my stay for the 2nd and 3rd nights.

Because of this.

The Abiquiu Inn

The Abiquiu Inn

The Abiquiu Inn

And this.

Dried Chiles

Tractor Crossing

I’m partial to tractor crossings.

And this. The breakfast.

Eggs Benedict

New Mexican Eggs Benedict – perfectly cooked eggs rest on dense and moist corn cakes, topped by mole sauce, bacon and goat cheese. More, please.

And this.  The towels. And Kiva fireplace.

The Abiquiu Inn

great towels and good water – two simple pleasures on road trips

Other New Mexico related posts in this series:

The Abiquiu Inn

Abiquiu – The Penitente Morada

Abiquiu – Plaza Blanca

Abiquiu – The Dar al Islam Mosque

Abiquiu

The Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail

New Mexico Travel Sites:

Hatch Chile Festival – September 3,4, 2011

New Mexico Tourism

Where to buy hatch chiles

Join the Road Trip Revolution at the Solo Road Trip Facebook Fan Page, here.

 

The Grand Climb

 

Tammie DooleyAbout SRT... I’m a traveler, writer and photographer for whom the open road frequently summons. Adventurous solo road trips are a staple for me, and a curiosity. So I created this website to share them and inspire you to step out and give them a try. Welcome!

A soul that sees beauty may sometimes walk alone – Wolfgang Von Goethe

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